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Journey to the Ancient Places

from Troy to Olympus

We are giving some information for the ones who are particularly interested in the antique.

Nowhere else, can one come so close to the antique like in the turkish coast. They are so impressive that when planning a journey they should not be forgotten. The most interesting places from north to south are:

>> Troy (Truva)

Location: South of the mouth of the Dardanelles a few kilometres inland. Although not located right on the coast, Troy has, thanks to Homer's Iliad, become famous as the site of the ten-year Greek sea battle. The excavation itself has produced no great surprises, but the sheer influence of its name and the endless references to it in literature, cinema and art make Troy worth a visit anyway. Anchorage: canakkale, in the Dardanelles, the only secure place, harbour with yacht berths, port of entry, 28 kilometres by taxi or minibus.

 

>> Assos(Behramkale)

Assos was first ruled by inhabitants of the Aegean islands, followed by the Persians, Alexander the Great's army, the Romans and the Byzantines. People migrated to Assos from the islands in the ist century BC. Aristotle lived here for a time, and it's thought he chose it as a place to practise the lifestyle described in Plato's famous work, 'The Republic'. Aristotle married the governor's daughter who bore him a daughter. Today the town is an attractive resort. Remnants of the ancient settlement can be seen underwater in the harbour area and the ruins extend from the dock towards the temple, and from there to the plateau facing Behramkale village.

The most spectacular structure is the temple of Athena, built in the 6th century BC. This temple is about 230 metres above the harbour and is thought to have been built to protect the nearby bays and gulfs. In addition to Roman remains, there are also Ottoman buildings on the hill.

 

>> Pergamon (Bergama)

Location: 30 kilometres east of Dikili harbour. Significance: Capital city of the Pergamon Kingdom during the second and third century BC. Worth visiting are the old mountain fortress with the Trajan Temple, the Acropolis, the Theatre on the Cliff (famous for its steep location), and the base of the one-time Zeus Temple which is located today in Berlin's Pergamon Museum. Below, in the presentday city, the Asclepion is the most interesting building. Anchorage: Setur Marina at Ayvalik, 57 km from Bergama. Dikili is nearer, but the harbour there is rather small with no marina.

 

>> Phocaea (Foca)

Some 2km north of Larissa, a side road branches off the main road on the left to the pleasant little port town of Foca (founded 1576) situated on the site of ancient Phokaia (Phocaea) at the northern entrance to the Gulf of Izmir. Phokaia, the most northerly of the Ionian cities, was founded in the eighth century, probably from Teos. Situated on a promontory projecting into the gulf, the city had two harbours. The Phocaeans were daring seamen who by the seventh century BC were familiar with the coasts of the western Mediterranean, founding Massalia (Marseilles) in about 600 BC and Alalia (Aleria) on the east of Corsica, around 565 BC. Many wealthy citizens from Phokaia moved to these new areas when their city fell to the Persians in about 540 BC. The only surviving ancient structures are the foundations of walls. There is also a ruined 15th century Genoese castle.

 

>> Teos (Sigacik)

In the plain to the south of Sigacik lie the remains of Teos, a member of the Panionic League of cities which was noted as a centre of the cult of Dionysus and the birthplace of the lyric poet Anacreon (ca. 540 BC). With its two ports, Teos was the main commercial centre of the region in the 5th and 6th century BC, while Smyma (Izmir) was no more than a village. The most impressive buildings are the partly re-erected temple and the Greek theatre with its spectacular view.

 

>> Ephesus (Efes)

Location: 18 km northeast of Kuladasi. Significance: Ephesus is the most important ancient city in Turkey. Even during the Apostle Paul's time (see Paul's Letters to the Ephesians), it was the largest city in the Asian province. The Little Meander River silted up the harbour so that today it is 8 km inland. Worth visiting: Large amphitheatre, Celsus Library, Marmor Avenue leading to the harbour, the Temple of Hadrian, the 'terrace houses', the Temple of Artemis (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World), the museum in nearby Selçuk. Anchorage: Setur Marina at Kuadasi is the only secure location in the vicinity.

 

>> Miletus (Milet)

Location: 40 km southwest of Söke, 10 km from the sea in the one-time valley of the Great Meander River. Significance: Famous trading and port city. Back in the 5th century, Miletus was located on the sea and had four harbours. In Miletus, the Greek philosophers Thales, Anaximander and Anaximenes founded the basis of western philosophy and science. Worth visiting: Theatre. Theatre Harbour, Lion's Bay and harbour. Delphinion, Agora, Bouleuterion. Anchorage: Anchoring area in the Altrnkum Roads (27°17'0 E 37°21' N) with a prevailing summer wind from the northwest. From there, Miletus is about 20 km by taxi or minibus and it's possible to see Miletus, Didyma and Priene in one day, a round trip of about 100 km.

 

>> Priene

Location: North of Miletus on a mountain slope above the silted-up Meander River delta. Significance: Medium-sized ancient territorial city, well-known for its location on a rocky terrace above the sea. Worth visiting: Theatre, Bouleuterion, the Temple of Athena, grid layout city plan and the remains of residential buildings. Anchorage: As for Miletus

 

>> Didyma (Didim)

Location: 3 km north of the Altinkum Roads (see Miletus). Significance: Designed as the largest oracle temple in the world, but never completed. The sulphur spring inside was a holy oracle site only Delphi was more famous at the time. Despite its destruction by an earthquake, it is still a very impressive location. Two vertical columns enable visitors to appreciate the dimensions of the overall structure. Famous: Medusa's head. Anchorage: As for Miletus.

 

>> Iassos (Asin Limani)

is in Güllük Bay in the Gulf of Mandalya. It used to be on an island with a shore about 2.5 km long, but the island later became joined to the mainland. The city is thought to have been founded by colonists from Argos, and the population was boosted by the arrival of migrants from Milet. The remains of the Roman city wall are 1.5 km long, and it is thought that the wall was left unfinished. Zeus and Artemis were the most important gods in lassos, but although a foundation of a temple to Zeus has been found, there are no signs of a temple to Athena. According to legend, the section of the Athena temple containing a statue of the goddess had no roof, since the statues sacred status was believed to protect it from rain.

The village of Kiyikislacik is like an open-air museum. The castle in the hills is from the Christian period. The official buildings of the city are on level ground to the north, and there is a theatre and a harbour breakwater that is partially underwater.

The inhabitants of lassos were always mariners and there is a legend connected with their symbol, the statue of a boy on a dolphin. According to the story, one day a group of boys went swimming after their sports in the gymnasium. A dolphin came close to the shore and took one of the boys out to sea on its back, bringing him back later. When Alexander the Great heard this story he made the boy a priest of Poseidon in Babylon. We don't know if this is true, but many lassos coins from the 3rd century BC have been found which show a boy riding on a dolphin. The 'Dolphin Boy' statue is on display in the Ephesus Museum.

 

>> Myndos (Gümüslük)

today known as Gümüslük, is a town on the western coast of the Bodrum peninsula. The seaside village, known for its waterside seafood restaurants, is within the ancient Myndos Harbour, where the remains of the Roman breakwater can be seen between Rabbit Island and the shore. Opposite Rabbit Island, at the entrance to the sheltered harbour, just beneath the water's surface are the foundations of the massive Roman tower. Excavations on the hillside above have revealed Byzantine chapel remains. Wandering around from the harbour area, there are plenty of old stones to be seen and recent excavations in the fields have uncovered a Byzantine chapel mosaic, and the remains of a Late Roman bath. On the tip of the peninsula there are remains of an ancient wall from the Leleg era.

 

>> Halikarnassus (Bodrum)

This settlement dates back 5000 years. Halicarnassus was the capital of the Caria region and the site of one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Mausoleum, built in 400 BC. The modem town of Bodrum is a very lively holiday resort. There is a museum at the site of the Mausoleum, near Bodrum's harbour. Here the foundations and a few remaining stones of the memorial tomb of Mausolus can be seen.

The amphitheatre and the Myndos Gate date from the same period and have been restored. The Myndos Gate was the east gate of Halicarnassus and the site of fierce resistance by the inhabitants to Alexander's invasion. The castle on the peninsula at the harbour entrance was built in the 1500's by the Knights of St John, and is now home to the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology. Exhibitions here include the Carian Princess, the Uluburun Wreck and the Glass Wreck. The museum also has the largest collection of amphorae in the Eastern Mediterranean.

 

>> Cleopatra Island (Sedir Adalar)

Sedir Island is in the Gökova Gulf and is so named because of the numerous cedar trees on the surrounding shores. Kedrai means cedars', and the durable wood from these trees was particularly used for building ships.
The island has a sandy beach made up of tiny limestone balls, thought to be a natural result of the geological conditions on the island. However, the beautiful sand was reputedly sent by ship from Egypt by Cleopatra, so that she could swim here with her Roman lover, Anthony. Because of this legend, the beach is known as Cleopatra Beach and receives many visitors in the summer months.
We don't know exactly when the city was founded but we know that Lysander, a naval commander from Sparta, attacked the island in 405 BC, first withdrawing when he met strong resistance, then gaining control of the island with a second assault. Probably because they had angered him, he sold off all the inhabitants as slaves. However, after this the island was inhabited continuously and, after being a guard post of the Knights of Rhodes in the Middle Ages, came under Ottoman rule.
The island is about 700 metres long and the archaeological remains are on the east side. They consist of ramparts, an amphitheatre, an agora, a necropolis and a temple of Apollo which is almost exactly in the centre of the island. This temple was built on a platform and a church was built around it in Byzantine times.

 

>> Cnidus

is at the very tip of the Datça Peninsula, an area of outstanding natural beauty at the meeting point of the Aegean and Mediterranean seas. The ancient city is one of six established by the Dorians when they migrated to the coasts of Anatolia in the 7th century BC. Probably due to its geographical situation, it has had a very eventful history, notable not only for battles but also for intensive trade and a rich cultural life. The city had two harbours and was well-known for its wealth. The people of Cnidus traded as far away as Italy and Egypt, and the wine they sold (in amphorae stamped with their own seal) was famous. There are efforts today to revive the local vineyards which produced this renowned wine.
Cnidus is known for its medical school, temples, observatory, a sundial which showed the seasons and its famous statue of Aphrodite. This statue, carved by Praxiteles, was the first of a naked goddess in the period. The story goes that the Cnidus inhabitants wanted some statues to adorn their city, and so they commissioned a statue of Aphrodite from the famous sculptor. The people of Kos had also ordered a statue from Praxiteles at almost the same time and, having to make two statues, the sculptor made one clothed and the other naked. When the people from Kos went to collect their statue first and chose to take the clothed Aphrodite, the naked statue went to Cnidus where the people displayed it in the most prominent area of town. In time, the statue became so famous that ships from all over sailed to Cnidus to see it. The pedestal can be seen today and has two steps. It is said that when Cnidushegan to decline in importance, King Nikomedes of Bithnia offered to cancel the city's tax debt in return for the statue. The statue disappeared during the Byzantine period, and one of the rumours about its fate is that it was taken to a Byzantine palace, where it was destroyed in a fire. Today, excavation continues at the site and while Cnidus is a fascinating anchorage, quickly changing weather conditions and the poor holding provided by the muddy bottom demand any skipper's full attention.

 

>> Loryma (Bozukkale)

The bay of Loryma on the Bozburnn peninsula has a narrow entrance and offers good protection. It has been used many times as a military base, as when the Athenian navy sheltered here after the battle of Syme. Loryma is opposite Rhodes. Not much is known about its history and little remains of the city. . It is mentioned in some records from the 5th century BC. There are the remains of a castle on the hill at the entrance to the bay. This is known as Bozukkale or 'broken castle'. If you feel up to it, following a somewhat tricky path leads to more ruins and another castle to the north.

 

>> Kaunos

According to Herodotus, Caunos was founded by the Carians living in the area, and according to written myths it was founded by Caunos, the son of Miletos. Like many similar coastal towns, it became separated from the sea as the harbour silted up.
Approaching by sea, you can anchor near Delikli Island and go by dinghy to the jetty. Endangered sea turtles lay their eggs on Iztuzu beach which is to the east of the canal that flows through a reed-covered area. A trip by ferry boat up the canal to Caunos/Dalyan and Köycegiz makes a pleasant excursion.
Caunos was right on the border of the ancient regions of Caria and Lycia, and tombs from both cultures can be seen as you go up the canal. There are also remains of the city walls, part of which were built when the city was invaded by the Persians and came under the rule of the satrap Mausolus. There is an amphitheatre on the slopes just below the acropolis, and a basilica; a bath and temple remains can also be seen in this area.
Because of an inscription found at the site bearing the names of Poseidon, Apollo, Artemis and Aphrodite, it is thought that there used to be temples dedicated to each of these gods. The stoa and a nearby fountain discovered during excavations at the site of the old harbour in Sülüklü Lake have been restored. The city was abandoned when the harbour could no longer be ucl, and the ruined site is impressive.

 

>> Patara

Ancient Patara lies behind an 18 km-long beach of beautiful, fine sand. The beach is up to 300 metres wide at some points. According to some, Patara was the birthplace of Apollo, to others it was founded by Apollo's son, Patarus, and the water nymph, Lycia.
The city was an important depository for grain and had a dock for loading. It was a lively port in the Byzantine period, as well as in Roman and Lycian times. The Roman victory arch, temple and Byzantine basilica, baths and theatre are partially covered in sand. We know that St Nicholas (variously Santa Claus or Father Christmas) was from Patara and that he set off for Rome from this harbour. The harbour was 1600 metres by 400 metres but is now filled with sand. The recent important discovery of an ancient lighthouse - the oldest in the world - brought renewed attention to the site. It was found 60 metres inland from the present shoreline and was built around 60 AD. It is presently being restored and it is estimated that the height will be about 20 metres after rebuilding.

 

>> Xanthos

Location: Between Fethiye and Kalkan, some way inland, in the Xanthos river valley. Significance: Xanthos was the capital city of the Lycian Kingdom (territory between Fethiye and Antalya). Lycia is well-known as the oldest republic in the history of the world - a federation of 20 cities, governed by a representative body of the people and a president.
Worth visiting: The Lycian Arrow Graves, Agora, the theatre, acropolis, Nereid Monument. About 4 km from Xanthos at Letôon there is a shrine dedicated to the Goddess of the Springs Leto, which gives the place its name.
Anchorage: Fethiye, round trip (Xanthos, Letôon and Patara) about 130 km, or the harbour at Kalkan, from which the same round trip is about 80 km.

 

>> Telmessos (Fethiye)

The large resort and port town of Fethiye is on the site of the ancient Lycian city of Telmessos. Coins minted in the 5th century BC provide some clues to the towns history. Remains of Telmessos can be found among the modern buildings, most notably several sarcophagi scattered throughout the town and the 6000-person theatre just behind the docks. Rock tombs can be seen on the road to Olüdeniz.

 

>> Chevalier Island, the 12 islands and Gemiler Island

The island at the entrance to the bay of Fethiye is known as Chevalier Island because it was used by the Knights of Rhodes. Other islands of various sizes near Fethiye are collectively known as the Twelve Islands. One of these is Gemile Island, also known as St. Nicholas Island after its church, which contains well-preserved frescoes. Archaeological remains extend from the water cistern on the shore to the top of the hill, and signs of other structures can be seen underwater. Close to the island, Gemile Bay offers good shelter and Kayaköy, an abandoned Greek village, can be reached from here.

 

>> Antiphellos (Kas)

Kas was a port town in the Hellenistic period and is a small holiday resort today. Antiphellos means 'opposite Phellos' and Antiphellos was probably the harbour neighbourhood of the town of Phellos in the mountains behind. Antiphellos is one of the oldest Lycian cities and its remains are scattered among the modem buildings of Kas.
On the way to the cukurba peninsula there is a well-preserved theatre on the right, with a spectacular sea view. Between the theatre and the harbour there are foundations of a temple dating from the ist century AD. At the end is Uzunçarsi, with its busy central shopping street, under an ancient plane tree you will find the Lycian sarcophagus that has become the symbol of Ka. A short walk leads up to the tombs carved in the rocks behind the town.

 

>> Aperlai (Sicakli)

Sicakli is between Kas and Kekova and, like Kaleköy, is a settlement that was partially submerged by the sea following an earthquake. From the sarcophagi and coins found in the area, the city appears to date back to the 4th and 5th centuries BC. The ruins are scattered, but Lycian tombs and the remains of the city wall can be seen. The submerged remains of the dock are about 15 metres from the shore.

 

>> Theimussa (Üçagiz), Simena (Kaleköy) and Kekova

Wherever you look in this area there are historical remains or outstanding natural scenery. From Uçagiz to Kaleköy to Demre... every bay has a fascinating story. Because the region subsided after an earthquake, many remains are submerged, especially off the coast of the island of Kekova. The city here was founded in the 4th century BC. When you look towards land from the small theatre at the top of Kaleköy hill, you can see ruins from three periods: Lycian, Roman and the Middle Ages. According to the inscription at the baths, the building was a gift from the people and parliament of Aperlai to the emperor Titus. Approaching Kaleköy from the sea, a sarcophagus can be seen standing in the water - this spectacular sight has become the symbol of Kaleköy. Opposite Kaleköy is Kekova Island and Tershane (shipyard) Bay on the west of the island is a popular stop for visitors. There are the remains of a basilica right on the shore.

 

>> Andriake (Kale)

Andriake/Kale is in the area known as Limanagzi (harbour entrance), and is the port area of the town of Myra. On the walls of the granary that survives today, there are reliefs depicting the dream of Herakleon who worked here in the 5th century. Moving inland towards the ancient town of Myra, you can see aqueducts, rock tombs, city ramparts and remains from Byzantine and more recent times, all spread over a wide area. Myra/Kale is generally accepted as the home of Santa Claus, and the St Nicholas Church here receives many visitors. St Nicholas was born in Patara and was the Bishop of Myra in the 4th century. He died in Myra and was buried in the church.

 

>> Olympos/Chimäre

Olympus is in the Gulf of Antalya between Kerner and Adrasan Bay and was founded in the Hellenistic period. It is named after Olympus (Tahtali) Mountain, which rises up behind the city. The harbour was closed off by alluvial material brought down by the river flowing through the city. The river mouth was navigable for some distance inland, making it a good hiding place for mariners of old, and the harbour was long used as a base by Zeniketes, a famous pirate of the time.
Exploring the site, which is divided by the stream bed and has old water channels and small tributaries running among thick bushes, is an interesting adventure. Following the stream bed away from the sea and climbing up to the acropolis on the lefthand slope provides a birds-eye view of the area.
Olympus has a long beach adjoining the beach of çirali. cirali is Chimera, the eternal flame of the gods of ancient mythology. The site is about five kilometres from Olympus and the flames still burn on the hillside.

 

>> Phaselis (Tekirova)

With its three harbours, Phaselis attracted both settlers and pirates. Like Olympus, it was under the influence of the pirate Zeniketes for a time. The city was founded by the king of Rhodes in 693 BC on a tree-lined coast of bays. Before the time of Alexander it was known for production of rose oil. The north harbour was protected by a breakwater built between the two small islands. Following the aqueduct at the entrance to the city leads to the main street linking the middle and south harbours. The harbour is beyond Hadrian's Gate, built for the occasion of the Roman emperor's visit. Along the street there are the remains of shops and baths with mosaic floors. The benches and stage area of the theatre (on a hillside overlooking the sea) are in good condition. The necropolis is on the steep slope behind the harbour.
The city has not yet been excavated and is a delightful place, with partly-overgrown temple remains, and rock tombs on the shore. A legend about the foundation of the city says that a shepherd named Kilabros sold his land in exchange for some smoked fish and some maize (as there was no money at the time, he bartered). Phaselis was built on this land, and a custom grew among the inhabitants of making an offering of fish and maize to Kilabros the shepherd at certain times of year. There was an expression of the time, 'Phaselis offering' meaning 'a cheap sacrifice'.

 

Remark

These short descriptions of the antique places at the coast are to serve only a first orientation. They can be used for the planning of a blue journey. Such a journey can be arranged after your personal desires - both the places and the time space can be arranged. Please give us the destination, that you want to see and experience. All routes can be extended also for two and more weeks.

Particularly in spring and autumn the routes depend on wind and weather. The last decision over the bays and ports in this case is made by the captain.